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The chain is the component that connects the all the major components of your drive train. It's purpose is to distribute your leg power throughout the other components to produce forward momentum.

Briefly inspect your bike chain before every ride to make sure it's clean or at least adequately lubricated. Every few weeks or months, depending on the frequency of your riding, closely examine your chain for wear and chain stretch. You can purchase a special tool for measuring chain stretch. Certainly consider these as possible culprits whenever shifting becomes inefficient.

Checking your chain

* Pre-ride chain checks

Rotate your pedals slowly backwards. Inspect individual chain links for build-up of dirt, rust and tight links. Tight links become very apparent as they pass through the curves of the chain's path.
* In-depth chain inspections

For an in-depth inspection first remove your chain from your bike, thoroughly clean it by leaving it to soak in degreaser or a suitable solvent. Then, check carefully for wear and stretch.

Prevention is better than cure - keeping the chain clean

Dirt causes various problems with your chain not least of which is shifting performance. It also:

* Increases the rate of chain wear
* The rate of wear and tear on derailleur and cassette cogs is increased
* The flexibility of individual chain links can be affected

Cleaning a chain is a relatively simple process that needn't take a lot of time or effort.

Regular, on-bike cleanings

The simplest method for cleaning your chain on the bike is to use a Chain Cleaner. This simple to use piece of equipment should be a "must purchase" for every cyclist - it makes chain cleaning a doddle.

If you do not have a chain cleaner, simply scrub the chain with a firm brush, toothbrushes or nail brushes work well, and a good quality degreaser.

Once cleaned and dried, re-lubricate with a chain specific lubricant. Teflon based lubricants that dry are best. If you use a lube that doesn't dry, remember to wipe off excess lubricant with a clean dry rag. Dirt loves a "wet" chain and especially one that is wet with oil.

Off-bike cleanings

Every few months or so, you can completely remove your chain, scrub it well, then soak it in solvent or degreaser, probably overnight. Make sure the chain is completely immersed in the cleaning fluid.

After removing the chain from the cleaning fluid, scrub off any remaining dirt with a firm, clean brush, and then dry the entire chain using a dry, clean cloth. After making sure that the solvent has completely evaporated, re-lubricate your chain and re-install.

A note on chain stretch

If a thorough cleaning doesn't remove your shifting problems, and there are no other causes of the problem, your chain may be stretched and therefore in need of replacement. Chain stretch is normal and it can be there even if the chain appears to be in good condition. A worn or stretched chain can cause excess wear and tear on chain rings and rear cassette.

Got a problem? Find the answer

There are many different situations that cause shifting problems and which make your chain slip or jump. When the chain is to blame, there are two common culprits:

Tight links

These are chain links that don't bend efficiently as they pass through the curves in the chain path. The easiest way to spot them is to pedal your chain slowly backwards and watch as individual links pass through the tight turns of your rear derailleur. A stiff link will be very obvious.

Most tight links are caused by corrosion or dirt. Therefore they can often be fixed with a good cleaning, some re-lubrication, and a little flexing back and forth of the chain with your hands.

Other tight links can be the result of improper pin installation or serious chain damage. Poorly installed link pins can be worked back into position either by shifting them back and forth inside of their chain plates using a chain tool or flexing the chain. A damaged chain however should always be replaced.

A worn chain

Like most other parts on your bike, chains wear over time. As a chain wears the spaces inside each link (into which the teeth of your chain wheels or cogs fit) get longer and therefore cease to fit the teeth snugly. The only way to fix a worn chain is to replace it.

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The crank set is the collective name we give to the system of components made up of the cranks, which are the metal "arms" that connect your pedals to the rest of the drive train. The bottom bracket, which is the axle and bearing system, that allows the cranks to rotate freely within your frame. Finally, the chain set made up of a number of chain rings.

The purpose of the crank set is to transfer your pedaling power to the remainder of your bikes drive train system i.e. rear cassette, front and rear derailleur etc.

You should regularly check your cranks and chain rings, particularly if you ride off-road; to make sure they're in good physical condition. You should also check your bottom bracket to make sure there's no "play".

Got a problem? Get the answer

The main problems experienced with the Crank set are:

* Damaged cranks
* Worn or damaged chain rings
* Play in the bottom bracket bearings

All crank set problems can be serious and it is usually best to have the bike checked by a competent cycle mechanic. Our guidance therefore concentrates on procedures that are relatively simple to perform.

Simple checking procedure

Inspect your cranks and chain rings visually, looking for cracks, dents or other signs of damage. Also check your chain rings for general cleanliness. In the event of you finding damage, whilst a "bent" chain ring can sometimes by straightened with the use an adjustable hand wrench, a damaged crank should be replaced immediately.

To check the condition of your bottom bracket bearings, grab hold of either crank and rock it back and forth perpendicular to your frame.

Movement or "knocking" may suggest that the bearings need to be adjusted, are damaged and need to be replaced, or the crank bolts are loose.

Crank set Cleaning Procedures

* Clean completely whenever you wash your frame. Each time you clean also check carefully for hairline cracks.
* Regularly clean the grime and dirt build-up off your chain rings, using a stiff brush and solvent when necessary. To get into those hard-to-reach places, a screwdriver wrapped in a clean rag or one soaked in degreaser is ideal.
* When cleaning your bike keep the bearings in your bottom bracket as dry as possible. Watch out for those jet washers, they can force water where it shouldn't go.

Removing and replacing a modern chain set
Removing

* Most chain sets have dust covers to protect them. They come in two types. The plastic ones you can remove with a screwdriver. The more expensive bikes, however, have caps that screw into place.
* Once the dust cap is off, you will need an extraction tool. On one side of the tool is a socket wrench. You need this first. Make sure it fits snugly over the crank bolt. Now, use a spanner or adjustable wrench to loosen it.
* Once the bolt is loosened, you can unscrew it the rest of the way with your hands. Make sure you didn't leave a washer inside the crank.
* Now you need to make sure the threads on the crank and on the extraction tool are not damaged. If not, screw the extractor into the crank.
* The extractor should screw in easily within 5 or 6 turns. If it takes less than that, remove it and start again as you probably have it twisted.
* Once you have it straight, gently tighten the extractor with a spanner or adjustable wrench. Now screw the shaft of the extractor in by hand and then use a spanner or wrench and get it firmly into place.
* It takes a lot of force to loosen a crank, so, if for some reason it becomes easier suddenly, stop and check everything. The crank is either loose or, you are damaging something.

If you have a really good bike, the chain set is often removed by unscrewing a central Allen bolt alone.

Replacing
When you are reassembling crank bolt, consider using Loctite adhesive to help retain the bolt
Removing and replacing chain rings

All chain rings are bolted onto the spider with chrome Allen bolts. Undo one of the bolts a half-turn, then, undo the next one similarly, and so on until all are loose enough to remove by hand. Many of these Allen bolts attach through a sleeve extending through the chain rings and the spider.

* You can detach the outer ring by gently puling on it. Now slide it up the pedal arm. Make sure there are no spacers and then lift it away.
* Many times you will need to remove the sleeve nuts before you can take off the other chain rings.
* Sometimes, the inner chain ring will be attached with a separate set of bolts. Undo these in the same manner as described above.

Before you can replace a chain ring you need to remove the chain set from the bottom bracket. See elsewhere.

Removing and replacing a cotter pin chain set

Removing

* First you need to undo the nut and washer on the cotter pin. Now, give the cotter pin a good thump with a hammer. If that doesn't push it out, try using a small metal bar and place that on the pin. Then hit it again.
* If the pin isn't damaged (but it probably will be), you can reuse it but we would always suggest using a new one.

Refitting

* First try to fit the new pin into the crank arm. If it doesn't fit, gradually file the pin down, trying it every so often.
* The pin should stick out of both sides of the crank arm equally.
* Make sure the nut is under the crank when the crank points backwards.
* Use a hammer and lightly tap the pin into place, then put the nut and washer in place.

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You should regularly inspect your cables for fraying. Fraying will usually occur below anchor bolts, at the end of a cable, or near the cable hanger. When working with cables the ideal tools you will need are Wire Cutters, Cable Cutters and a Fourth-hand Tool.

Cutting standard cable housing:

When replacing the outer cable housing, measure it against the old one so that you get the correct length. Then squeeze the cutter lightly so the jaws slide between the coils of the wire. Then carefully squeeze the cutters to cut the wire. Clean up the jagged end of the wire with the cutters before fitting it.

You should fit cable housings with a metal ferrule at each end. These ensure that the housings seat squarely in cable stops. Trying to fit a new inner cable into an outer housing with a damaged end will cause it to fray. If this happens, pull the inner cable out of the housing and try to re-cut the damaged end.

You can tension cables with a fourth-hand tool, this tool gives you greater control. When fitting a new cable once you've checked that your derailleur and/or brakes are working properly. Cut off any spare cable that may be left and put an end cap on the end of the cable.

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The frame is the solid, angular skeleton of your bicycle. It provides your bike's overall structure and its strength. You should check your frame regularly for dents, bulges, wrinkles, cracks or any other structural damage caused by accidents. Also check the paintwork for corrosion, nicks and general damage. Make a quick check of your frame every time you wash it and after all serious crashes.

Structural frame damage is typically caused by accidents, fatigue or collisions. It usually appears as a "wrinkle", crease or crack in the frame tubes or the joints where they meet. Scan your frame carefully, paying special attention to joints, drop outs and the area around your bottom bracket. Paint damage can lead to rust and corrosion over time.

Each time you wash your bike, check your frame for any areas where the frame metal has been exposed by wear or damage.

Common Frame Problems and Solutions

Damaged frames should be taken into a cycle retailer for evaluation as soon as any damage is noticed. Dented, bent, or cracked frames can be serious safety hazards, even if they still "feel" solid.

Bike frames suffer nicks, cuts and gouges all the time as a result of normal use. These minor scrapes and dings will have little to no effect on immediate riding performance. However, if left, they can expose your bike to rust and corrosion problems over time. The best way to avoid any corrosive damage to your bike frame is to keep it as clean and dry as possible. To repair scratch damage, simply paint over any nicks, cuts and gouges with durable touch-up paint every six months or so. Touch-up paint is available from most CoBR members.

To keep your frame in good shape, wash or wipe it down frequently. If the dirt on your frame is dry, wipe it off with a clean rag or soft brush. If it's wet, use a sponge and soapy water being careful to keep the water away from your bike's bearing systems as much as possible (this includes the headset, bottom bracket, wheel axles and pedals). For an added layer of frame protection, seriously consider the use of a high quality Cycle Polish, visit our shopping area. Not only will this offer some protection to your paint finish but your bike will continue to look like the day you bought it.

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"Freewheel" is the name of the group of sprockets on rear wheels of derailleur-equipped bikes. They are also referred to as the rear cassette or in our house "the ringy things at the back", a long story.

Overhauling freewheels is possible but not easy or recommended for beginners. Most cycle mechanics do not overhaul freewheels, it is usually much easier just to replace them. However, replacing a freewheel should only be done if you replace the chain at the same time. That's because the freewheel's sprockets and the chain wear together. As the chain stretches, the spacing between the sprocket teeth also increases. If you replace only one or the other, you may end up with a skipping effect in the highest gears (smallest sprockets).

If you have an occasional, non-rhythmic skip on a bike with an old chain and freewheel, it is time to replace them. If the skip happens at regular intervals, the problem is most likely a stiff chain link, dirt on the freewheel sprockets, or a damaged sprocket tooth.

If you want to service the freewheel, the first thing to do is to soak the entire unit in degreaser, let it dry, then soak a small amount of oil into it. Most freewheels have a left-hand threaded plate screwed onto the outer surface of their core. The plate has two holes. You can place a small punch against one of the holes, and tap on it with a hammer. The plate will unscrew, and the freewheel will then fall apart.

There are lots of (usually 78) 1/8" ball bearings inside which will fall out. After cleaning the freewheel, put grease in the grooves in which the bearing balls run, and stick the balls into the grease to hold them in position while reassembling the freewheel. Leave a gap for one or two balls in each groove.

Do not grease the ratcheted surface against which the two (sometimes three) pawls ('clickers') run, but instead coat it with a small amount of oil. In cold weather, grease could impede the movement of the pawls.

You will find a few very thin shims stacked on the core of the freewheel. These fragile shims are used to adjust the closeness of the bearings. Be careful in handling them, because if you damage one and have to leave it out, the freewheel will usually be too tight to work properly.

After reassembling the freewheel, set a punch against one of the two holes in the top plate, and bang repeatedly, but lightly against it to tighten it fully. This plate is rather brittle, so you'll want to apply the force as numerous small hits rather than clobbering it.

Most freewheels have removable sprockets, but for many brands, replacements are unavailable. Sprockets can be removed with a pair of tools made by attaching bicycle chain to bars. While holding one such sprocket tool on a large sprocket, unscrew the smallest sprocket and then the second smallest. Most freewheel sprockets have regular right-hand threading.

Derailleur-Equipped Bike Wheels

On derailleur-equipped bikes, you need to take the freewheel off the rear wheel to adjust the cones properly. You'll need a specific freewheel remover tool for your brand of freewheel. There are about six common types. Take your bike to your local CoBR retailer so they can see what you need and sell you the right one.

Insert the remover fully. If it is the type with prongs, screw the axle nut or quick release skewer back on loosely to keep the tool from slipping. Grab the remover in a vice or with a large wrench and unscrew it counter-clockwise. It will probably be quite tight. If you are using the pronged type remover, after the freewheel is loosened, remove the axle nut or quick release skewer, before you finish unscrewing the freewheel.

Adjust the wheel bearings just like you would do with a front wheel.

Putting the freewheel back on is much easier. Just screw it on.

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The front derailleur is the metal "cage" attached or clamped to your seat post that moves your chain from one chain ring to another. It moves from side to side, carrying the chain along with it as you click the appropriate shift lever.

You should check, clean and lube your front derailleur regularly to make sure it functions. You should check your front derailleur quickly before each ride.

The easiest way to check your front derailleur is with your rear wheel off the ground.

* Whilst in this position rotate the pedals and shift your front gear lever through its full range. If your front derailleur is properly adjusted, the chain will shift quickly and easily from one ring to the next and without overshooting or jumping off the chain set.

Got a problem? Get the answer

Front derailleur problems involve slow or inaccurate shifting. A front derailleur usually malfunctions because:

1. It's dirty and needs lubricating
2. The cable is damaged or incorrectly tensioned
3. The mechanism is not positioned properly on the seat tube
4. The limit screws are not adjusted correctly

See the navigation grid above for specific information regarding how to effectively overcome these difficulties.

If, despite the adjustments described, shifting difficulties persist, you may have a more serious shifting problem. An experienced cycle mechanic should be brought in to help.

Problems caused by dirt

Many front derailleur problems are caused by simple dirt, grit or insufficient lubrication. Even small amounts of dirt and grit can cause problems, so keep it clean and re-lubricate every month or so, depending on riding conditions.

Clean the derailleur by brushing all exposed parts with a stiff brush. Stubborn dirt is best removed by wiping with a clean rag soaked in degreaser. Be sure to clean the derailleur mechanism thoroughly but carefully, including the hard to reach areas of the main body and arm.

When re-lubing, focus on the moving pivots of the mechanism. It is best to use a spray lubricant designed specifically for bikes and, whilst lubing, shift the derailleur back and forth while spraying so you can work the lube into the tough to reach places. Wipe off excess lubricant, this will only attract dirt.

Problems caused by cable damage or incorrect tension

If a cable is very obviously damaged, it must be changed. Better to do it now, than have it "snap" whilst out on the trail. Luckily most problems with cables only require minor adjustment.

Most modern bikes have fine-tuning devices called barrel adjusters. These simple, round adjustment knobs, are usually built into derailleur systems and are typically located on your gear lever. These adjusters allow you to fine tune your derailleur by increasing or decreasing the tension of your cable.

Most bikes with "indexed" derailleur systems have barrel adjusters but not all. Plus, this method of adjustment is used more for fine adjustment of the rear derailleur than the front.

To fine-tune your front derailleur using your barrel adjuster, start with your chain on the largest front ring and largest rear cog.

* Shift your chain down to the next smallest chain ring and check to see how close the inside surface of the chain is to the inside wall of the derailleur cage.
* The two surfaces should be as close as possible (approx. 0.5mm) without touching.
* Turn the barrel adjuster counterclockwise to move the derailleur cage inward i.e. away from the chain surface. Turn it clockwise to move the cage outward.

Repositioning the front derailleur

To check the position of your front derailleur:

* Shift it so that the derailleur arm is positioned over the largest chain ring.
* The "cage", the curved section of the derailleur that the chain passes through, should be approximately 2mm above the teeth of the chain ring.
* The outer plate of the cage should be lined up parallel with the chain ring.

To reposition your front derailleur:

* Loosen the mounting bolt that holds it onto your frame.
* Re-position the derailleur by sliding it up and down and/or rotating it slightly from side to side. You may have to loosen the derailleur cable in order to move the body.
* When properly re-positioned be sure to retighten the mounting bolt carefully before riding.

Poorly adjusted limit screws cause many shifting problems. To be at it's most effective the cage must move from side to side within a very specific tolerances.

Limit screws

Limit screws control the inner and outer limits of your arm's sideways movement. These small screws are typically located next to one another on the main derailleur body.

Each screw controls one extreme of the derailleur movement. The "outer stop" screw determines the farthest distance the derailleur will travel away from the frame. The "inner stop" screw determines how close the derailleur will travel inwards toward the frame. Tuning these 2 limit screws correctly will ensure your derailleur performs without problems.

Which is which? Inner and outer limit screws are identified by many methods. Most are labeled with "L" for low gear, which refers to the smallest chain ring, or "H" for high gear, which refers to the largest.

Setting the inner stop.

The first step is to see how far the derailleur swings in toward your frame. To do this, you must shift the derailleur to the innermost chain ring and let the tension out of the cable by loosening the bolt that anchors the cable to the body. Loosening this cable will ensure that the arm is free to swing freely.

Then shift your chain to the smallest chain ring and the largest rear cog. Use your inner limit screw to position the inner wall of the cage so that there is 2mm of clearance at their closest point.

Once you've set your inner stop, with your chain still on the smallest chain ring, pull the cable taut and re-connect and tighten.

Setting the outer stop

Now shift your chain to the largest chain ring and the smallest rear cog. Use your outer limit screw to position the outside face of the cage 2mm away from the outer surface of your chain at their closest point.

It is this adjustment that stops your chain from overshooting the outermost chain ring and falling off your bike. Since some shifting systems do not automatically shift the derailleur as far as it can, pull outward slightly on the front derailleur cable as you set and test your outer limit adjustments. This added cable tension will ensure that the chain can't be thrown.

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The rear derailleur is the incredible mechanism that shifts your chain from cog to cog on the rear wheel. Like the front derailleur, it moves from side to side in response to shift commands from a gear lever. The rear derailleur also absorbs the chain slack that happens when shifting from large cogs to smaller ones.

The rear derailleur should be cleaned, lubed and checked regularly to make sure it is in good working condition and properly adjusted.

To check the performance:

* Suspend your rear wheel off the ground.
* Rotate your pedals while taking your rear shift lever through its full range of gearing options.
* A properly functioning rear derailleur will shift the chain quickly and easily from cog to cog.
* The cage or "hanger" of your derailleur should easily extend back and forth to take up or give any slack when needed.

Got a problem? Get the answer.

The rear derailleur typically malfunctions because:

1. It is dirty, needs lubrication or is damaged
2. It needs to be adjusted

Problems caused by dirt and damage

Like the front derailleur many rear derailleur problems are caused by simple dirt, grit or insufficient lubrication. Even small amounts of dirt and grit can cause problems, so keep it clean and re-lubricate every month or so, depending on riding conditions.

Clean the derailleur by brushing all exposed parts with a stiff brush. Stubborn dirt is best removed by wiping with a clean rag soaked in degreaser. Be sure to clean the derailleur mechanism thoroughly but carefully, including the hard to reach areas.

When re-lubing, focus on the moving pivots of the mechanism. It is best to use a spray lubricant designed specifically for bikes and, whilst lubing, shift the derailleur back and forth while spraying so you can work the lube into the tough to reach places. Wipe off excess lubricant.

When performing this vital function of Bike maintenance check that the derailleur is not bent or damaged in anyway. If it is take it to a competent cycle mechanic.

Problems caused by poor adjustment - Limit screws

Begin any rear derailleur adjustment by checking your limit screws. These screws can be checked in much the same manner as the front derailleur except that you check how the derailleur guide pulleys (the toothed wheels in the derailleur hanger) line up with the inner and outer cogs.

Derailleur limit screws are typically located on the main body. The "L" screw will control the inner stop of the rear derailleur, above the largest cog. The "H" screw will control the outer stop, above the smallest cog.

Setting the outer limit

First adjust the "H" or outer limit screw; this is different from the front derailleur procedures. The outer adjustment should be made with the cable loose, so that the derailleur is free to swing all the way outward to its limit. To loosen the cable, simply loosen the binder bolt that holds it to the arm.

Once the bolt is loose and the cable is free, shift your chain outward onto the smallest rear cog and the largest chain ring at the front. Set your outer limit screw so that the pulleys of your rear derailleur are directly in line with the outermost cog. View this from the rear of the bike.

Once set, pull the cable taut and re-anchor it. If your derailleur has a barrel adjuster, turn the adjuster so that it's 1 or 2 full turns back from its most clockwise position before you reconnect the cable. This will give you room for any fine adjustment later.

Setting the inner limit.

Shift your chain onto the smallest chain ring and largest rear cog. Then use the inner limit screw to line up the pulleys with the largest rear cog, again as viewed from the rear of the bike.

The rear derailleur will not automatically travel as far inward as they can when you shift the chain onto its innermost cogs. To make sure therefore that the chain cannot be thrown off into your wheel, give your cable a strong pull when lining the derailleur pulleys up with the innermost rear cog. If you can pull the pulleys past the innermost cog, tighten the inner limit screw, clockwise and test again. If the pulley won't travel inward far enough, loosen the limit screw counter clockwise.

Problems caused by poor adjustment - Barrel adjustments

You may be able to fine-tune your adjustment using the barrel adjuster. If you have one of these simple, round adjustment knobs, it will be located either on the rear derailleur body or on your shift lever.

Use the barrel adjuster to fine-tune the derailleur, shift your chain onto the smallest cog and the largest chain ring. Shift your gear lever once whilst checking to see if your chain shifts easily and quickly up to the second cog. If it doesn't, or if the shift is noisy and inefficient, turn your barrel adjuster counterclockwise one-quarter turn to tighten the cable and pull the derailleur slightly inward. Repeat this procedure until the shift is accurate.

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Your headset is a system made up essentially of two sets of ball bearings. These ball bearing sets are located just above and just below your frame's head tube. The headset allows your handlebars, stem and front fork to turn freely inside of the head tube.

To many cyclists it is the last thing that they think to check, yet it is probably one of the most important components on any bike. Look after the headeset and you won't even notice the attention you give it, you'll just enjoy smooth turning and effective stopping.
Dismantling of a headset is not for the faint hearted and is subsequently not covered here. Removing and replacing headsets requires specialist tools, tools that are very expensive, often well beyond the finances of the cyclist. Therefore, other than routine inspection and maintenance, you are best to take a problem headset to the specialist.

Common Headset Problems and Solutions
Poor headset adjustment

Solution - These can be complex procedures, and are often best left to the skilled cycle mechanic. If however you wish to make the adjustment yourself first make sure you have the correct sized headset spanners, yes you need two. Don't use adjustable wrenches as these can slip and cause damage.

There are basically two nuts to "adjust", one is actually a locking nut. First loosen the top nut. This may already be loose, clearly indicating there is a problem. Tighten, or loosen, the nut below the locking nut until you get the movement you wish from the headset. Then, whilst holding this nut in place with one spanner, tighten the top "locking nut" with a second spanner.

Bearing system damage

Solution - Bearing system problems are also often beyond the abilities of most "home mechanics". If you think the bearing system is damaged you should really take you bike to your nearest CoBR member.

Headset adjustment

You should check your headset to make sure it's secure and that it allows for smooth steering. You should perform the following headset checks before every ride.

Headset adjustment.

To check for good headset adjustment, apply the front brake fully and push backwards and forwards against the grip of the brake. There should be no looseness, play, or knocking in the headset. If there is, turn the handlebars 90 degrees and try again, this will ensure the looseness is in the headset and not your brakes.

Special note: If you have front shock absorbers, compress them slightly before performing the test.

Bearing systems

The bearing systems are designed to provide a full range of smooth, jerk-free rotation. To check, lift your front wheel off the ground and turn the handlebars slowly backwards and forwards. Well-tuned bearing sets will give you a smooth rotation. If damaged or poorly adjusted they will either bind during the rotation, or feel rough or jerky. As you perform these checks, ensure your brake and gear cables aren't interfering with rotation of the handlebar.

Also, listen for grinding sounds, rattles, or other noises from your headset. These can all be signs of bearing system problems.

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Pedals are the free-spinning platforms at the ends of your crank arms. They provide something for your feet to push against to get your bike moving.

You should check your pedals to make sure they're securely attached to your crank arms and that the bearing systems that allow them to rotate freely are in good working order. Most pedals do not have to be cleaned as part of a normal schedule of preventative maintenance. Treat them with care however when washing your bicycle as they contain bearing systems that can be damaged by water and dirt.

To check the ball bearing systems in your pedals, grasp each pedal firmly and shake it from side to side while holding the corresponding crank arm still. If the pedal moves or knocks in response to this shifting, you may have a bearing problem. You should also check these bearing systems by holding onto each pedal lightly and keeping it level while rotating the corresponding crank arm through a full rotation. If you notice any roughness or binding as the pedal rotates around its axis, you may have bearing damage.

Special note for clipless pedals
If you have clipless pedals, clean the springs and cleat surfaces frequently with a clean rag. Lubricate them with a spray or drip lubricant as recommended by the manufacturer. This maintenance is especially important for off-road clipless pedals.

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Your saddle is your third contact point with the bike, hands and feet being the others. Often it is the saddle that takes the largest percentage of your body weight and therefore choosing the correct saddle and the correct adjustment are paramount if you are to enjoy cycling.

(Please see other areas of the site for information regarding saddle selection))
Saddle Problems and Solutions

Loose or poorly adjusted saddle

Proper saddle position is often a matter of personal preference. Saddles can be adjusted for height, tilt and fore/aft position. The exact combination that works best for you will depend on your physical size and your riding style. For more information about checking saddle position and making adjustments, check elsewhere in the site.

Make sure your saddle is secure before every ride. Most saddles are held in place by a few simple nuts and bolts. All of them should be tight enough to resist vigorous shaking.

An over-extended seat post

This is a serious safety hazard. In general, at least two inches of your seat post should be inserted into your frame at all times. This rule however will vary considerably if you follow the growing fashion of "showing a lot of seatpost".

If you have to raise your seat post beyond its extension limit line to get comfortable on your saddle, it's probably time for a larger seat post, or a bigger bike.

Once you've found the "perfect" saddle position for you, mark your seat post and your saddle rails with tape or felt tip pen (indelible) so you can readjust them easily.

Preventing problems

Regularly remove your seat post from your frame and coat it with a thin layer of grease before re-installing it. This grease layer will help protect the post against rust and corrosion and more important, prevent the post seizing in your frame.
Checking your saddle

You should check your saddle to ensure it's secure and properly positioned.

Grasp it firmly and attempt to move it out of position while holding your bike steady. Some side-to-side movement will probably occur but if your seat post shifts up and down, or your saddle feels loose, make adjustments.

Also check your seat post visually to make sure you haven't exceeded the seat post extension limit line (the furthest point that the post can be safely extended upwards) has not been exceeded. This is clearly marked on the side of your seat post.

Regularly remove your seat post from your frame and coat it with a thin layer of grease before re-installing it. This grease layer will help protect the post against rust and corrosion and more important prevent the post seizing in your frame.

Saddle Cleaning Procedures

To keep your saddle in good condition, simply wipe it down from time to time and treat it with UV-protective conditioner. Most models can be cleaned with light soap and a little clean water. Others require special cleaners designed for their specific materials.