pulse

While the following manual doesn't cover everything but it does bring you the basicsand other tasks that are easy to do without forking big bucks on equipment

Preventing minor problems from becoming major costly ones should be the goal of every cyclist. With a little knowledge and care, many costly repairs can be prevented from happening.

Therefore this guide provides you with a workshop manual designed to help and guide cyclists through most of the basics of cycle maintenance and repair.
Washing your bike
Basic equipment

Essential lubrication
Torque levels
Pre-ride routine
]Brake checks
Brake care
Brake adjustment
Bottom bracket
Chain care
Chainset care
Cables
Frame
Freewheels
Front derailleur
Rear derailleur
Headset
Pedals
Saddle
Steering
Types of gears
Hubs and bearings
Wheels and tyres

[size=18px]Advanced checks[/size]

General checks
Brakes
Gears and chain
Wheels and tyres
After a crash

pulse

In this section of the Ausbb Bike Maintenance Guide we show you how to construct a simple preventative maintenance (PM) routine that will not only save you money but also make your cycling even more enjoyable. Let's start with the basics.

Keep your bike clean

All bikes are a collection of moving parts and when these come into contact with mud and grime performance of most components is adversely affected and wear and tear is inevitable.

Few cyclists wash their bikes after every ride. But a regular schedule of frequent, simple cleaning (once a month, once a week or more depending upon the kinds of riding you're into) is important.

There's more to cleaning your bike than just hosing it down from time to time and leaving it to dry. Water (especially from a high-pressure hose) can cause damage to bearing systems throughout your bike. So if you do wash, do so carefully.

Washing Your Bike

Every bike should be washed at least every 2-3 months. Your bike should also be washed after really dirty rides. Washing your bike is easy and does not take that much time.

What you need

A car wash brush is ideal plus a bottlebrush and toothbrush for those fiddly places.
Bike wash or wash and wax shampoo
Sponge

Method

Using the car wash brush or a sponge, wash down the entire bike.

Give the bike a second wash. This will allow you to find the spots where the dirt is especially tough and didn't come off in the first wash. Use the bottlebrush to remove dirt from the tight places the sponge or car brush couldn't fit. If you come across areas where there is perhaps a build up of oil or grease, use the toothbrush and some degreaser.

Rinse off your bike and allow to dry. Then lubricate most moving parts and where cables enter cable outers etc. See later for a proper lube routine.

Notes of caution

Avoid washing your bike in the sun because the heat will dry the frame before you're ready to rinse it.

If you must pressure wash your bike, watch those bearings, the pressure can force the water where you don't want it to go.

pulse

The basic 'tool and lubrication kit'

Metric 'spanners' - 8,9,10,11mm sizes of both the box-end and open-end types
A Socket set is very useful though not essential.
Screwdrivers - flat head and Phillips
Allen keys-the standard type are good but the long workshop type are much more useful
Pliers - these will be used for pulling cables.
Large adjustable wrench-This is for use on headsets and bottom brackets

Cleaning products:

De-greaser
Bike wash and wax
Chain cleaner/degreaser
Hand cleaner

Oils and greases:
Light spray lube for cables
Teflon spray for all round use and summer riding
Adhesive oil for winter use
Anti-seize compound
Selection of greases including waterproof and copper

Toothbrush - this is the easiest thing to use to degrease components

Tools that should never come close to your bike

Worn wrenches: they damage the nuts and bolts you use them on.
Self-locking pliers: they damage the nut or bolt you are trying to remove and the surfaces and paintwork in the area you are working
Hammers, however there is one exception. When altering the height of the handlebars, cushion the blow with a cloth or piece of wood.

Basic techniques

Use a box-end spanner or a socket wrench whenever possible. An open-ended spanner is very likely to slip so avoid using one whenever possible. If you must use an open-ended spanner, steady your hand against other components to avoid stripping the head of bolt.

For most jobs you won't need a socket set, but if a bolt is hard to reach, it is an ideal tool so having a set is often well worthwhile.

Allen-head bolts tend to fill with dirt, so clean them before trying to make adjustments. Also, make sure that the Allen key goes all the way into the bolt before you try turning it.

If an Allen-head bolt is 'buried' in a component, try reaching it with the long leg of the Allen-key. For these jobs long workshop type Allen keys are a real benefit

You will find a Phillips screw on a derailleur and pedals. Make sure that your screwdriver fits all the way into the screw; otherwise it may get stripped.

When stripping components (for example a derailleur) lay the small parts out in order as you take them off and in the direction they were installed.

Anti-seize compound should always be used when bringing two different metals into contact with each other, for example when you put an alloy seat post into a steel frame.

pulse

Keeping your bike parts properly lubricated is crucial for good performance. Lubrication protects moving parts from excessive wear caused by friction and keeps rust and corrosion from attacking exposed metal components.

Be careful, though -- over-lubricating can lead to poor performance and component damage (excess lubricant can attract dirt and other abrasive particles). As a general rule, excess lube should always be carefully wiped away before the bicycle is ridden.

When lubricating a number of parts at once, remember the order in which you apply the lubricants. Wiping off excess lube in the same order will give the lubricants time to soak in.

Frequency of lubrication

To keep a bike and all its parts in good condition, you must 'lube' it regularly. For those who ride their bikes daily this means about once a week in winter and every 2 weeks in summer. For those who ride perhaps weekly or monthly, monthly will suffice. Certainly lube your bike after every washing.

When you lubricate your bike, be sure to use lubricants that are suited to the weather conditions you'll be riding in. Rainy areas require more durable bike oils, while drier areas require lighter oils that won't pick up as much dirt. Also keep in mind that wetter conditions typically require more frequent lubrications.

What to do

Spray lube the brake pivots being careful to not get it on the pads or rims.

Spray lube the centre of the jockey wheels to keep them running smoothly.

Lube each of the main pivots on the rear derailleur, the top pivot and the chain cage pivot. Then wipe them lightly.

Lube the front derailleur. Lube around the chain cage and the gear shifters. Lube any point where the inner gear cable turns a corner.

Your chain is your bike's most "at risk" lubricated part. It should be lubricated frequently (to slow the rate of chain wear), and will benefit from being removed from your bike from time to time to be thoroughly cleaned in a solvent and re-oiled. The more frequently you lube your chain however, the less necessary off-bike cleanings will be.

In general, you should lubricate your chain whenever it squeaks or appears "dry." Lubing after wet rides will help keep your chain from rusting. Keep in mind that the type of chain lube you use will affect how often you need to lubricate. The chain should be soaked with whatever type of lube you choose to use, follow the instructions given. Give it time to penetrate and dry if necessary.

Lube the brake levers on the pivots. Pull the brake lever so you can lube the brake cable. If you leave the nipple dry, the cable may fray, so lube it also.

Lube all of the cables. Cables connect your brake and the derailleur assemblies to the levers you use to control them. They should be checked frequently (especially in wet conditions) and re-lubricated from time to time..

Hint for lubing gear cables.

Place your gears in the lowest gear (at the back, the largest chain ring), and then use your gear lever to effectively 'change up' to the highest gear (at the back, the smallest ring). This has the affect of providing a considerable amount of 'slack' for the cable to be easily lubricated.

pulse

Any fixing bolt or nut that can be tightened on a bike should ideally be done to torque specifications. The table below is for general reference only. Always refer first to the manufacturers specifications..... and remember the reason for using a torque wrench - 'tights just right, too tights stripped'

[/img]

pulse

Want to make sure your bike is in tip-top condition for your daily or weekly rides? Then the best defense against loose components is a thorough pre-ride check. Regular pre-ride checks will help you catch potential problems before they develop into safety hazards. Use this quick and easy bike check to make sure it is in a safe condition. It's worthwhile performing this during, or after washing your bike.

Check your brakes.

Your brakes are properly adjusted if they are fully on by the time the brake lever is pulled halfway to the handlebars. If you are able to pull the brake lever closer than that, your brake system may need some attention.

Check the brake pads. There should be plenty of rubber left on the pad when they are about 1mm away from the rim. All brake pads have a line or notches that indicate when the pad needs replacing. If your pads have worn down to the wear line or notches, replace them.

Check for fraying brake cables. This can occur near the cable adjuster or anywhere where they emerge from the outer cable. Make sure it takes only normal pressure to apply the brakes if not this could signify a frayed or stiff cable.

If you have V-brakes, you should note that the extra stopping power comes at a cost, the brakes wear faster than the old models. Also, check to make sure the brakes are even on both sides of the rim. If not, they may need a slight adjustment.

Check your handlebars and stem for cracks.

Make sure the handlebars are level and the stem lines up with the front wheel.

Check your tyres and rims

Check the tyres for cuts and wear. Excess wear can decrease grip and increase your chances of sliding out on turns. Keep your tyres inflated to the recommended pressure. Spin the wheels while watching the gap between the rim and the brake shoe. If the rim has a noticeable wobble or an up-and-down movement, the rim needs to be trued.

Check your Cranks

Holding one crank still with one hand, see if you can move the other one. If you can, the crank bolt needs tightening.

Grasping the ends of both cranks, try to move them sideways. If they move an equal amount to the left and right, it means the bottom bracket is loose.
Lift the chain off the chain-rings so that the cranks can be easily turned. Then rotate the cranks to see if the bottom bracket needs attention.

Make sure the cranks and chain rings are both straight by looking from above. Check that all the chain ring bolts are tight using an Allen key. Make sure the pedals revolve freely.

Check your Hubs

Grab the wheel at the top and see if it wobbles side to side. If there is noticeable play, the hubs need to be adjusted. Now spin the wheel. If you hear a grinding noise or if the wheel feels rough as it spins, the bearings may need to be repacked or the hub casing replaced.

Check your Gears

Check that the gear changes are quick and accurate. Turn the pedals as you shift through the gears. As you shift, the chain should transfer smoothly from gear to gear.
Check the cable on the rear derailleur near the cable anchor bolt and wiggle the rubber pulleys to see if they are worn.

Check the front derailleur cable for fraying; making sure the chain cage is parallel to the chain. There should be a 6mm gap between the chain cage and the chain ring

Check your Chain

Weak or bent chain links can take the fun right out of a ride. Rotate the cranks backward and watch the links as they pass over the rear derailleur pulley wheels. This is the area where the chain makes its tightest turns; the bad links will hitch a little as they pass. You can loosen the links that stick by flexing the chain laterally with your fingers. Run the chain through again. If it still hitches, you may have a bad link that requires repair.

Check your Frame and Headset

Look the frame over for cracks. Also, use the front brake to hold the bike still while you rock the bike back and forth. Any noticeable play means the headset needs to be adjusted. Check the seat post clamp bolts and the saddle clamp are tight. Don't over tighten so that you do not damage the threads.
This is just a quick, simple check.

N.B. The most important part of the bike that should be checked regularly is the brakes. NEVER RIDE A BIKE WITH DAMAGED BRAKES

If you do discover looseness or "play" in any bike component, you can either fix the problem yourself or take your bicycle to a bike shop for service. Choose the first option only if you're sure of both the cause and the exact steps necessary to fix it.

pulse

Brake levers

Your levers can easily get 'clogged up' with dirt. When applied, levers should always move smoothly and noiseless. Checking your brake levers is easy - simply squeeze them.

When your gears are fully engaged, there should be approximately one inch of space between the inside edge of the lever and your handlebars. At this point your brakes should hold solidly against your full weight.

Levers may also slip out of position on your handlebars. The levers should be mounted firmly but with a bit of give so that in the event of a severe knock, they will move a bit rather than snap which could happen if they were mounted too firmly.

Brake assemblies

These include the brake arms, brake shoes (which house the brake pads) and the pads themselves. They can be set-up incorrectly or jarred out of position as a result of an accident or crash. They should be checked to make sure all parts move freely and are positioned properly.

Visually inspect both the front and the rear brake units and make sure they're centered on each wheel with the brake pads equidistant from the rim surfaces.

Note: Wheels that are out of true can cause many brake assembly problems.

Pads wear down therefore requiring more effort to fully engage the brakes and give slower response times. Pads can also be jarred out of position. Check regularly to see if your pads are glazed, or significantly worn. Glazed pads can be cleaned. Pads that are worn down significantly should be replaced. Unevenly worn pads can either be sanded or filed flat or may even need replacing.

Note: Each pad should fully contact the rim when the brake is engaged. They should do this without touching the tyre or hanging over the lower edge of the rim. Pads should be "toed-in" slightly when viewed from above. This is so the leading edge of the pad makes contact with the rim surface slightly before the back edge does. This improves brake effectiveness and prevents that squealing sound.

Brake cables and housings

Cables fray, rust and weaken over time. They also wear, kink and fray as a result of normal use. Cable housings that protect your cables can break, corrode or clog up over time. Cables should always move freely through all cable housings and the guides that hold them in place. Check your brake cables and housings regularly for visible frays, rust, or signs of wear during all major brake overhauls and maintenance checks.

pulse

You should clean your brake system any time performance drops or a pre-ride inspection uncovers dirt or grime in the system. Frequent cleaning is especially important for your brake pads.

Remove grime and residue from your brake pads using a cloth and alcohol, glass paper, or even a file. Brake pad surfaces should be soft enough that you can scratch them with your fingernail. Remove any foreign objects. To resurfacing worn or dirty pads cut any ridge off with a sharp knife. Flatten if by rubbing the ridge over sandpaper or use a file.

Wipe down and lightly lubricate your brake cables every few months. Lubricate by applying a teflon spray to the cable near the cable guides and housings. Be careful not to get lubricant on your pads or wheel rims.

The pivot points found throughout your brake system can be maintained by wiping them clean and by applying a very small amount of teflon oil to the pivot areas while moving them back and forth. Lube the point of friction where the arms of a cantilever are bolted on pivots fixed to the frame.

If the brakes feel heavy but the cables are OK, it indicates an overhaul is needed. Side pull brakes need more lube because they have more internal friction. Disassemble and clean them if it takes a lot of effort to squeeze the arms together.

Adjusting cables

You need to adjust the cables when the brake lever has a lot of travel. The cable adjuster is on the brake lever on cantilevers. Loosen the locknut and give the adjuster 2 turns counterclockwise. Continue this process until the brake lever feels almost solid. On road bikes the cable adjuster is on the brake arm. Loosen the locknut and unscrew the adjuster a few turns. If necessary loosen the anchor bolt, pull the cable through a bit and retighten.

Brake Levers

You need to do the following if the brakes feel heavy and the cables need lubricating Your position is uncomfortable and you have to stretch when applying the brakes or you are installing new handlebars

Road bikes - lube the brake lever pivot; it may be sticky with old oil. Pull the brake lever and spray lube onto the end of the cable. If you need to adjust the brake lever position, remove the cable and using an Allen key, remove the clamp bolt that is at the back of the hood. Loosen the clamp bolt and pull off the handlebar. This will enable you to remove the brake lever without undoing the handlebar tape.

Mountain bikes - the pivots should be lubed regularly on mountain bikes because they are exposed. Lube the cable by pulling the brake lever and the cable adjuster. To remove or adjust the position of the brake lever, loosen the clamp bolt that is usually tucked under the shifter lever, where the gear shifter is fitted to the brake lever. You must push it fully forward to get at the clamp bolt. There may be a small Phillips screw just behind the cable adjuster. Try to adjust this so that you can make a stop using your 3 middle fingers only.

Identifying and solving braking problems

Brake levers typically malfunction for one of three reasons:

Your brake pads are not close enough to the rims
The system is not tight or fully "engaged"
Your levers are damaged or dirty

Always check that your brake pads are close enough to your wheel rims. Before you reposition them, however, check that the pads are not worn down too far, if so, replace them.

If your pads are okay, turn the cable adjustment knob counterclockwise until the desired pad to rim distance is achieved (1/8th of an inch is standard). The cable adjustment knob is either located where your brake cable enters your lever. On road bikes they are on the brake caliper.

Most modern braking systems have some sort of quick-release mechanism that allows you to loosen the cable system without affecting your brakes effectiveness. This is the 'slack' in the system needed to open the brake arms wide enough to get your wheel out. Some quick-releases are located on brake assemblies; others on brake levers or elsewhere along the cable route. If you find too much 'slack' in your braking system, first check these quick-release mechanisms to make sure they are engaged properly.

If however your brake quick-releases are connected properly but brake levers still function poorly, the levers themselves may need cleaning or repair.

Incorrectly positioned brake assemblies or brake pads

Poorly positioned brake assemblies can cause ineffective braking and/or brake squealing.

Solution - Brake pads and brake assemblies are usually held in place by simple systems of binder bolts, washers and mounting nuts. Re-adjustment in most cases involves little more than loosening the appropriate nut or bolt, maneuvering the assembly into the proper position, and tightening the binder bolt again to keep the component in place. Because of the large number of brake designs available, detailed descriptions of specific adjustments are not included. Take some time to familiarize yourself with your brake assemblies and how they're put together, so you can make basic adjustments if necessary.

Improperly gripping brakes

If your brakes still grip poorly after you've checked your levers and assemblies, your brake system may need professional adjustment. But before taking the bike to your nearest CoBR member, check for the following:

Dirty rims can cause poor braking performance. Check your rims and clean them if necessary.

Worn or "glazed" pads. Rim grime, general brake use and time can all cause your brake pads to become hard, slick and ineffective. Check the surfaces whenever braking performance drops or your brakes "squeal". Glazed or hardened pad surfaces should be cleaned or replaced.

pulse

Installing Brake Pads

You need to do this job when the brake pads are worn past the wear line. Unhook the straddle wire from the brake arm after loosening the cable adjustment at the lever. Then undo the back of the shoe anchor bolt. Prevent it from moving with an Allen key in the front of the bolt. Pull out the pad holder and check its condition. Check for ridges at the top or bottom and if they are present do not misalign the new pad in the same way. If you need new pads, slip the pad holder into the shoe anchor bolt and allow 1mm clearance at the top of the rim. Tighten the shoe anchor.

Disassemble and Adjust

You will need to do this job if the brakes feel stiff or jerky when you pull the brake lever or rust or mud gets into the pivots To reduce tension on the brake cable, screw in the cable adjuster. Unhook one end of the straddle wire (if there is one) and lift it out of the yoke. If it is a link-wire type of brake, use an Allen key to remove the anchor bolt and pull the cable out. Remove the pivot bolt. To keep the springs and wires from being thrown in all directions, hold them in place while removing them. After cleaning and greasing the pivots, replace the pivot bolt. Turn the adjuster until each pad is 2mm from the rim and lock by tightening the pivot bolt again. There might be a small screw in the side of the cantilever arm that controls pad position. To adjust turn the screw clockwise to move pad away from the rim and vice versa. Try to equally space the pads from the rim.

New Cables for Cantilevers

You need to do this when brakes grab or lock the wheel, the cable is frayed or broken or it takes a lot of effort to emergency stop

Link Wire Cantilevers: Pull out the old cable. Make sure that the new nipple fits, grease it and insert it into the hole. Slide the housing over the inner cable. Then slide both into the adjuster, Unhook the link wire from the brake arm. Then feed the new brake cable into the cable carrier and slide the flexible hose over the end of the cable. The flexible hose should be able to touch both the cable carrier and the brake arm. Hook the link wire back into the other brake arm and adjust the spring tension. The cable carrier should sit directly below the cable hanger with at least 20mm of free cable above it. Move the brake cable into the narrow slot in the cable carrier. Make sure the pads are close enough to the rim.

Straddle Wire Cantilevers: Put the brake cable into the anchor bolt on the cable carrier and tighten carefully. See if you can lift the straddle cable into the channel on the back of the cable carrier by squeezing the brake pads against the rims. If it's tight, slightly lengthen the main brake cable. Do the opposite if it is too loose. When the brakes are off, the pads should be 2mm from the rim. The straddle wire should form a right angle for best control. Loosen the brake arm and adjust the length of the straddle wire if it doesn't. Make sure that there is enough free cable above the cable carrier so the brake comes on fully.

Care and inspection of Side pull brakes

Installing Brake Pads

Screw in the cable adjuster, operating the quick release so there is some give in the cable. Undo the brake and squeeze the pad out between the brake and rim. Slip the pad into the slot and tighten lightly. Pull the brake lever a few times. While pulling the brake lever, notice where the pad hits the rim. Go for clearance at the top of the rim, but make sure there is no overlap at the bottom. Tighten the bolt securely and test it out.

Brake adjustments

You will need to do this job when you installed a new cable or the braking feels rough.

Pull off the cable end cap and undo the anchor bolt. Being careful, try to remove the inner cable without it fraying. The nipple should drop out of the cable anchor and into the brake lever. On some forks there is a self-locking nut or an Allen head sleeve bolt. Make sure you check how the brake is attached to the forks. Take off the brake from the forks and remove the adjuster nut that is holding everything in place on the pivot bolt. Disengage the spring and then take the brake arms off. Now clean and reassemble everything. Make sure you put anti-seize on all points where friction occurs.
If you notice that one of the pads touches the rim, centre the brake. This may take a couple of tries.

New Cables for Side pull brakes

You need to do this job if your brake cable is frayed and/or lubing a cable doesn't free it.

Remove the cable. You may have to cut it out, as frayed cables are hard to pull out through the anchor bolt. It is easier to pull the nipple end out of the brake lever if you slide the housing off first. You may have to peel back the rubber hood and pry out a plastic cover to get at the nipple. Undo the handlebar tape (if the cable runs underneath it) as it will make it easier to install the cable later. From the brake end of the housing try to push out the inner cable. The nipple should pop out and then you can pull out the cable with pliers. You might have to remove the nipple with pliers if it won't come out. If the old plastic housing is kinked, cut a new piece, using the old as a guide for its length.

Spray lube into the housing until it comes out the other end. Then thread the inner cable into the housing. If the cable comes out the top of the brake lever, the housing sits in a separate ferrule that fits into the lever. Next thread the inner cable into the housing and turn the cable anchor until it's in the right position, then put the nipple into place. Fix the cable into place on the side of the brake lever. Keep the inner cable under slight tension so that it doesn't slip out. Pass it through the cable adjuster, then the anchor bolt and pull it tight. Check that the adjuster is screwed in and fit the anchor bolt. Pull the cable tight with one hand while pulling the brake pads with the other. Then tighten the anchor bolt and check the adjustment. Tighten the anchor bolt slightly and then tension the brake

pulse

Removal

* Having removed both cranks from the bike start with the chain side first.
* Engage the external teeth of the extractor with the retaining ring.
* Once positioned in the retaining ring, place a large spanner or adjustable spanner on the extractor. You need to be very gentle with the spanner as the retaining ring is usually made of plastic, or a resin and if you are not careful, you could strip it. This one you need to rotate in a CLOCKWISE direction to remove.
* Now, you need to insert to extractor on the non-chain side. To remove you rotate this one in the regular, counter-clockwise direction.
* Now remove the cartridge out of the bottom bracket shell.

Replacement

* Clean the inside of the bottom bracket shell with spray lube.
* Again start with the chain side by screwing the retaining ring in partially, to make sure the threads are clean. Coat with anti-seize, or copper grease, if appropriate.
* Screw the retaining ring in about 2/3 of the way with your fingers, making sure it goes in straight.
* Now switch to the non-chain side of the bike. Make sure the cartridge is clean and again apply anti-seize, or copper grease, if appropriate. Screw it in as far as you can with your fingers.
* Now use the wrench to tighten it into position. It should be flush with the bottom bracket shell. Remember to screw this side, the non-chain side, in clockwise.
* Now go back to the chain side. You need to tighten the retaining ring until it touches the end of the cartridge. This will lock it into place.