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taking care of equipment

PepPete

New member
Hello guys,

I have an oly barbell set, just wonder is there any easy spray i can use and wipe of for a quick clean?

Also what lubricant do you guys use for the sleeves?

where and cost of the product would be great thanks!
 

walt

DuffProteinMan
why do you need to wipe down your oly barbell set? Apart from maybe just wiping it with a cloth thats about it.

What sleeves are you talking about?
 

Rambodian

No I'm not cambodian
I would just use a rag to wipe it down mate, no need to use a chemical. As for the bar ends I use a product called tri-flow oil, its what I use on my mountain bike chain so I just chuck a bit in the bearings on my missus bar and the bushes on my Texas to keep it smooth.
 

oldcorollas

重量上げしね&#
sleeves that the plates sit on.
i just pulled mine apart and used EP (high pressure) grease on the bushes (from dry).. time will tell...

for the knurling etc, check out the ivanko site
Ivanko | Care & Maintenance of your Ivanko Olympic Bar
BLACK-OXIDE FINISH OLYMPIC BARS.

The Black-oxide finish on your bar is quality coating but is not a rust-preventative. If neglected, your bar will do what steel does best: it will rust. You can wipe your bar down with a rag sprayed with WD-40.

If need be, you can clean the chalk from the knurling with a synthetic bristle brush from a hardware store. Do not spray WD-40 into the sleeves of the bar. Your sleeves are oiled with SAE-20 weight non-detergent oil. This oil is ideal, but 3-in-1 oil works too. WD-40 oil = mush. If need be, you can lubricate the sleeves once a month with a drop of SAE-20 (non-detergent) in the hole of the end cap and where the sleeve-collar meets the bar. Some will tip the bar on one end, apply oil on the sleeve (and the opposed) sleeve-collar end, wait a few hours and then repeat the process for the other side. This insures that the oil really works its way into the sleeve assembly.
but are Ivankos needle bearing?
either way, medium weight running in oil or similar will be fine..

if bar is chrome plated, or stainless, just keep it clean and dry.

if the chrome plating comes off, go the WD40..
 
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Brick

Well-known member
Barbell Maintenance should be done in the following order -
1.Buy cheap oly bar and plates
2.Lift frequently until strong
3.Lift heavy until bar is bent
4.Discard invest in better bar

Do the above and you will be replacing bars at a rate of 1 every 3-5 years. If you really want to make them last minimise heavy (200kg+) rack pulls and any dropping from overhead. Don't overthink, just lift.
 

callan

The official ghetto booty
Barbell Maintenance should be done in the following order -
1.Buy cheap oly bar and plates
2.Lift frequently until strong
3.Lift heavy until bar is bent
4.Discard invest in better bar

Do the above and you will be replacing bars at a rate of 1 every 3-5 years. If you really want to make them last minimise heavy (200kg+) rack pulls and any dropping from overhead. Don't overthink, just lift.
buy quality, buy once.
Eleiko for lfe <3
 

callan

The official ghetto booty
Saw somewhere that eleiko bars no longer have warranties unless you're using eleiko plates and eleiko platform... have fun investing 10k.
and? i have an eleiko bar, dont have eleiko plates or platform.... just because it doesnt have a warranty doesnt mean its not a quality bar.
if you dont do anything stupid to it it will last forever.

also i believe warranty is voided if they are dropped onto racks, but theres a magical thing called getting a spot that solves that problem
 

Brick

Well-known member
Wish i could afford an eleiko bar, my whole home setup was only slightly more than your bar. Secretly I am jelly. Callan you should get a job as a eleiko sales rep.

Old corollas how is your bar performing packed with grease? I thought brass bushings were supposed to be left dry. Sacrafical softer alloy to be replaced when deformed. I thought about doing same but thought the grease would workits way out.
 

oldcorollas

&#37325;&#37327;&#19978;&#12370;&#12375;&#12397;&#
i dunno, i'm a complete newb :p

but the metallurgist side of me thinks that grease will be better.
even if it was a sintered bush with lubricant in it, grease will be better.

if it was a good quality bar, with good quality machine surfce for the bush to run on, with good tolerances, and the bush was either pre-lubed, or high lead content etc... maybe... but good quality stuff still needs oil.

grease will be fine :D and not leak out


edit: it is hard to "pack" with grease, since the grease will be pushed out of the bush in use, leaving thin coating on it.
if the bush was that soft, then the high loads of use will rip it to shreds, since it will effectively be point loading at the top, even if the tolerances are close.

so as you say, if buy cheap, use till bent, buy new one :) (but grease might make it spin a little better until it bends) but cheap bushes may not be made right, so grease/oil just prolonges until failure
 
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Bazza20

Well-known member
For those that say buy cheap. My shitty cheap bar bent after a couple months, the knurling is total shit and the bar is way too fat. It's just crap to use.

My texas power bar on the other hand the knurling is awesome, bar does not flex with tiny weights, its still dead straight and is going to be cheaper in the long run than replacing cheap bars all the time.
 

Brick

Well-known member
For those that say buy cheap. My shitty cheap bar bent after a couple months, the knurling is total shit and the bar is way too fat. It's just crap to use.

My texas power bar on the other hand the knurling is awesome, bar does not flex with tiny weights, its still dead straight and is going to be cheaper in the long run than replacing cheap bars all the time.

Check the op's training log he is noob.(no offence intended pep) a cheapy bar would be fine. You can buy a brass bushed oly bar with 28mm shaft for $85. Texas bar is what $500 plus?? It's like buying a ferrari for an L plater. If he was an intermediate lifter or getting into competing in PL then I agree go quality.

I will agree with you that the 31mm (force usa) bars you see for sale everywhere are terrible (bad knurl, thick handles, shaft bends as soon as it's dropped from waist height)
 

Brick

Well-known member
Corollas I hear what your saying about prolonging bush life, there is a fair bit of slop in my sleeves and I think the point loading would be high, they certainly don't like to spin under heavy weight. The backyard mechanic in me says grease + inclusion = destroyed bushings not that it matters the shafts always seem to bend before the bushings shit themselves and with slow lifts the spin doesn't matter so much anyway.

I don't really care secretly I want my bar to bend so I have an excuse to get ABC or Texas powerbar.

I just get real curious about the mechanics of stuff. Loved your posts on ghetto gear, especially widening the dodgy bench.
 

Bazza20

Well-known member
Check the op's training log he is noob.(no offence intended pep) a cheapy bar would be fine. You can buy a brass bushed oly bar with 28mm shaft for $85. Texas bar is what $500 plus?? It's like buying a ferrari for an L plater. If he was an intermediate lifter or getting into competing in PL then I agree go quality.

I will agree with you that the 31mm (force usa) bars you see for sale everywhere are terrible (bad knurl, thick handles, shaft bends as soon as it's dropped from waist height)

I never dropped my cheap bar and it still bent. Cheap bars are still good for rack pulls because you don't want to be doing them with a nice bar.
 

Brick

Well-known member
I never dropped my cheap bar and it still bent. Cheap bars are still good for rack pulls because you don't want to be doing them with a nice bar.

I should clarify that I mean dropping heavy deads even gripped without bumpers will wreck those 31mm force bars real quick. The quality is woeful. There are some decent cheap bars out there but your right the knurl is always oly style (shallow pretty smooth) but on the plus side helps with grip strength and no one cares if you use chalk at home.
 

callan

The official ghetto booty
+1 to bazza, i fucked my cheap bar in a few weeks..... and i was doing sub100kg lifts at the time.
+1 to the Texas power bar, i have used one, it was nice, the knurling is similar to that of an Eleiko, but a little sharper so it makes a mess of your hands.
 

callan

The official ghetto booty
Wish i could afford an eleiko bar, my whole home setup was only slightly more than your bar. Secretly I am jelly. Callan you should get a job as a eleiko sales rep.

Old corollas how is your bar performing packed with grease? I thought brass bushings were supposed to be left dry. Sacrafical softer alloy to be replaced when deformed. I thought about doing same but thought the grease would workits way out.
the bar is the only valuable thing i own... its my baby, i am considering making an airtight hard case for it to stop it rusting LOL :p:D
me? Eleiko sales rep? lol wut
if i can overcome my terrible social skills i can be quite manipulative muhuhahahaha but saying that these skills are terrible, when it first comes to making a sale im like
asder222-meme-generator-im-a-potato-1fc7be.jpg
 
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